Bright and not so beautiful speakers
Saturday 15th December 2012
Download SONY SS-176E service manual & repair info for electronics experts. Service manuals, schematics, eproms for electrical technicians. This site helps you to save the Earth from electronic waste! SONY SS-176E. Type: (PDF) Size 39.0 KB. Category AUDIO SERVICE MANUAL. Dec 17, 2012 Bright and not so beautiful speakers. If your after ugly speaker which deliver a smooth sound look no further than a set of Sony SS-176E or SS-176-EB (The brooklands editions come with brass.
Still can't understand the big love for the NAD 3020, yes in it's day it was a great budget amp, but was firmly at the bottom end. Around £80 from HiFi Markets, (anyone else remember them?), certainly there are far better available for under £100 on eBay.
a) it's an absolute classic, and as a 10 or 11 year old I remember hearing my uncle playing his music on his, specifically 'War of the Worlds' and it's fueled a life long passion for music and hi-fi.b) it still sounds good now, and i'd like to hear what these other sub £100 amps are as I'll be snapping them up. I bought a 3020 a few years back and my fear was that perhaps my memory of the sound would be ruined by the reality - but not a bit of it, it had exactly the same warm and rich sound that I remembered - certainly not accurate or neutral, but very musical. I would say the sound signature was very much akin to the Arcam of today. It now gets fed by a ZP90+DacMagic into some Tannoy Mercury's (original Mk1) and sounds fantastic.
Saturday 15th December 2012
Still can't understand the big love for the NAD 3020, yes in it's day it was a great budget amp, but was firmly at the bottom end. Around £80 from HiFi Markets, (anyone else remember them?), certainly there are far better available for under £100 on eBay.
I assume you have a PC or laptop as you are on here, try a half decent sound card and feed your system from that.
If you have an old PC try downloading 'Vortexbox' and buy a Cambridge DAC. Quality is quite amazing for the cost.
I had an old 3020 and a 3020e for a bit, not used in the main hifi but Ok for the workshop. I found it a bit lacking in bass weight and control, and looking inside I saw 4 capacitors the size of my thumb - not a good sign. I got a much better sound out of an older Sansui 661, not so fashionable but a much more musical sound IMO.I assume you have a PC or laptop as you are on here, try a half decent sound card and feed your system from that.
If you have an old PC try downloading 'Vortexbox' and buy a Cambridge DAC. Quality is quite amazing for the cost.
Now I use a single ended tube amp, more kick, dynamics and a far more open involving sound - oh and much smoother and more natural sound, no hint of harshness or brittle sound that open comes out of transistors chasing round feedback loops. Tube amp wasn't so expensive either - although I did some DIY mods to follow Thorsten Loesch's feedback philosophy.
I know it's controversial but transistor amps have a lot to answer for when it comes to sound, although a lot of the early Sansuis and to some extent Pioneers got pretty good.
Sunday 16th December 2012
Still can't understand the big love for the NAD 3020, yes in it's day it was a great budget amp, but was firmly at the bottom end. Around £80 from HiFi Markets, (anyone else remember them?), certainly there are far better available for under £100 on eBay.
a) it's an absolute classic, and as a 10 or 11 year old I remember hearing my uncle playing his music on his, specifically 'War of the Worlds' and it's fueled a life long passion for music and hi-fi.b) it still sounds good now, and i'd like to hear what these other sub £100 amps are as I'll be snapping them up. I bought a 3020 a few years back and my fear was that perhaps my memory of the sound would be ruined by the reality - but not a bit of it, it had exactly the same warm and rich sound that I remembered - certainly not accurate or neutral, but very musical. I would say the sound signature was very much akin to the Arcam of today. It now gets fed by a ZP90+DacMagic into some Tannoy Mercury's (original Mk1) and sounds fantastic. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mission-Cyrus-one-Integrated-Amplifier-later-model-/321041666816?pt=UK_AudioTVElectronics_HomeAudioHiFi_Amplifiers&hash=item4abf931300
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ARCAM-ALPHA-8-INTEGRATED...
![Sony ss-176e brooklands edition review Sony ss-176e brooklands edition review](/uploads/1/2/6/3/126336461/439023943.jpg)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Denon-PMA-250SE-Phono-In...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Musical-Fidelity-X-A1-In...
Sunday 16th December 2012
I bought a Cyrus One new - was OK but not got a bit ragged when pushed so ended up moving to a Cyrus2/PSX but never quite the sound I wanted. Agree great second buys though - particularly the 2+PSX.
I ran Alpha 10 + DAVE/10P3 for about 5 years as my main system, but was out of its depth when I upgraded speakers to B&W 800 series. Loved it and wish I'd kept it now. Big fan of Arcam.
Not heard this one but I think the A1/A100 is another absolute classic - although you can fry eggs on the top of the case. I also had a NuVista 300 on home dem against Chord and Krell a few years back which was superb.
However, I still love my 3020 and they can be had a lot cheaper second hand than those you list, so hence I'm still a big fan, and why I'm not alone in this regard
Like the OP I think if you like a certain sound signature being told that something is 'better' isn't particularly relevant, as sound is so subjective, and a well matched system is worth considerably more than the some of its parts.
I ran Alpha 10 + DAVE/10P3 for about 5 years as my main system, but was out of its depth when I upgraded speakers to B&W 800 series. Loved it and wish I'd kept it now. Big fan of Arcam.
Not heard this one but I think the A1/A100 is another absolute classic - although you can fry eggs on the top of the case. I also had a NuVista 300 on home dem against Chord and Krell a few years back which was superb.
However, I still love my 3020 and they can be had a lot cheaper second hand than those you list, so hence I'm still a big fan, and why I'm not alone in this regard
Like the OP I think if you like a certain sound signature being told that something is 'better' isn't particularly relevant, as sound is so subjective, and a well matched system is worth considerably more than the some of its parts.
Sunday 16th December 2012
Now I use a single ended tube amp, more kick, dynamics and a far more open involving sound - oh and much smoother and more natural sound, no hint of harshness or brittle sound that open comes out of transistors chasing round feedback loops. Tube amp wasn't so expensive either - although I did some DIY mods to follow Thorsten Loesch's feedback philosophy.
I know it's controversial but transistor amps have a lot to answer for when it comes to sound, although a lot of the early Sansuis and to some extent Pioneers got pretty good.
I think it's all down to system matching, and the problem I have with tube's is that although I love the warm, full-bodied delivery I've always felt that it comes at the price of too much loss of detail and dynamics. However I've never tried a really good tube pre-amp in front of my power amp so perhaps that's worth trying to remove some of the harshness? What tube amps do you use? I've heard that some of the Chinese imports are supposed to offer a lot for reasonable money? Or this caught my interest on eBay. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stunning-Audio-Research-...I know it's controversial but transistor amps have a lot to answer for when it comes to sound, although a lot of the early Sansuis and to some extent Pioneers got pretty good.
Sunday 16th December 2012
I think it's all down to system matching, and the problem I have with tube's is that although I love the warm, full-bodied delivery I've always felt that it comes at the price of too much loss of detail and dynamics. However I've never tried a really good tube pre-amp in front of my power amp so perhaps that's worth trying to remove some of the harshness? What tube amps do you use? I've heard that some of the Chinese imports are supposed to offer a lot for reasonable money? Or this caught my interest on eBay. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stunning-Audio-Research-...
The LS26 is a pretty amazing preamp, but I am a bit biased. I run an Audio Research LS26 pre (2 6H30's) into an Audio Research VS115 (4 6H30's, 8 KT120). They don't do the warm bit, but it is full bodied. No lack of detail or transparency or dynamics either, and they do do a soundstage that you wouldn't believe. It's the best pre/power combination I've ever had (and I've had a few over the years).If anyone is after the eBay one, I think it's a bit pricey. Ask the seller how many hours are on the tubes (there is a tube hour counter). It will need re-tubed at about 4,000 hours, and the pukka ARC tubes are hideously expensive over here. You can get Sovtek 6H30 EB's from Watford Valves though for about £30 a pop (by the time you add in VAT and matching). That's what I do, and I can't tell the difference between the OEM ones and the ones from Watford V.
Sunday 16th December 2012
I think it's all down to system matching, and the problem I have with tube's is that although I love the warm, full-bodied delivery I've always felt that it comes at the price of too much loss of detail and dynamics. However I've never tried a really good tube pre-amp in front of my power amp so perhaps that's worth trying to remove some of the harshness? What tube amps do you use? I've heard that some of the Chinese imports are supposed to offer a lot for reasonable money? Or this caught my interest on eBay. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stunning-Audio-Research-...
My tube amp is a modified Sweet Peach - as modded in this thread HERE. It was modified to use the power tubes in pentode mode (more gain and power), and to keep the feedback loop between only two tubes and present the output transformer with a low impedance drive. In that way I get the most out of the peach transformers and the russian tubes, without feedback messing everything up and killing the music.A decent tube amp will not remove harshness - it will just not add it, I think you need a decent DAC first - and that means one that digitally upsamples IMO.
As for loss of detail and dynamics - you must have listened to some pretty poor tube amps, mine is full of detail and very dynamic. It is possible to design transistor amps just as good as tube amps BTW - it's just that most people don't, so most of them are not. I suspect your really need a decent DAC and then a decent integrated tube amp - look up Icon Audio, they do some sound stuff.
Shame the Peach is so expensive now - it was only £139 when I bought it - although I have added about £50 of parts to it including some nifty capacitors etc. I could still do with upgrading the PSU caps though - although in class A they affect the sound far less.
Sunday 16th December 2012
I think it's all down to system matching, and the problem I have with tube's is that although I love the warm, full-bodied delivery I've always felt that it comes at the price of too much loss of detail and dynamics. However I've never tried a really good tube pre-amp in front of my power amp so perhaps that's worth trying to remove some of the harshness? What tube amps do you use? I've heard that some of the Chinese imports are supposed to offer a lot for reasonable money? Or this caught my interest on eBay. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stunning-Audio-Research-...
The LS26 is a pretty amazing preamp, but I am a bit biased. I run an Audio Research LS26 pre (2 6H30's) into an Audio Research VS115 (4 6H30's, 8 KT120). They don't do the warm bit, but it is full bodied. No lack of detail or transparency or dynamics either, and they do do a soundstage that you wouldn't believe. It's the best pre/power combination I've ever had (and I've had a few over the years).If anyone is after the eBay one, I think it's a bit pricey. Ask the seller how many hours are on the tubes (there is a tube hour counter). It will need re-tubed at about 4,000 hours, and the pukka ARC tubes are hideously expensive over here. You can get Sovtek 6H30 EB's from Watford Valves though for about £30 a pop (by the time you add in VAT and matching). That's what I do, and I can't tell the difference between the OEM ones and the ones from Watford V.Interesting info - thanks. Out of interest what is the rest of your system?
Sunday 16th December 2012
I cant see it being the Quads. I had a pair of the 11L 1's. Silk dome tweeter IIRC. Beautifully balanced and smooth combined with my Rotel 10 series.
Can you plug an ipod through an RCA input on the amp?
Can you plug an ipod through an RCA input on the amp?
Sunday 16th December 2012
My tube amp is a modified Sweet Peach - as modded in this thread HERE. It was modified to use the power tubes in pentode mode (more gain and power), and to keep the feedback loop between only two tubes and present the output transformer with a low impedance drive. In that way I get the most out of the peach transformers and the russian tubes, without feedback messing everything up and killing the music.
A decent tube amp will not remove harshness - it will just not add it, I think you need a decent DAC first - and that means one that digitally upsamples IMO.
As for loss of detail and dynamics - you must have listened to some pretty poor tube amps, mine is full of detail and very dynamic. It is possible to design transistor amps just as good as tube amps BTW - it's just that most people don't, so most of them are not. I suspect your really need a decent DAC and then a decent integrated tube amp - look up Icon Audio, they do some sound stuff.
Shame the Peach is so expensive now - it was only £139 when I bought it - although I have added about £50 of parts to it including some nifty capacitors etc. I could still do with upgrading the PSU caps though - although in class A they affect the sound far less.
The DAC isn't the problem, I've got 5 or 6 in the house now ranging from an M-Dac to Wyred 4 Sound Dac2 (I really need an eBay clearout!). I'm personally not convinced by upsampling (the theory of making up data just bothers me), although as the best front end I've ever heard (made by DcS) used an upsampler who can say. I was just interested in trying a tube preamp in front of my Krell to see how it would sound and whether it would take the 'edge' of some of overly bright recordings that seem to proliferate these days. Just part of the continual tinkering process A decent tube amp will not remove harshness - it will just not add it, I think you need a decent DAC first - and that means one that digitally upsamples IMO.
As for loss of detail and dynamics - you must have listened to some pretty poor tube amps, mine is full of detail and very dynamic. It is possible to design transistor amps just as good as tube amps BTW - it's just that most people don't, so most of them are not. I suspect your really need a decent DAC and then a decent integrated tube amp - look up Icon Audio, they do some sound stuff.
Shame the Peach is so expensive now - it was only £139 when I bought it - although I have added about £50 of parts to it including some nifty capacitors etc. I could still do with upgrading the PSU caps though - although in class A they affect the sound far less.
Sunday 16th December 2012
The DAC isn't the problem
Can you try ripping a harsh CD track to a .WAV file, and the downloading Audacity and having a look at the output?![Sony Ss-176e Brooklands Edition Sony Ss-176e Brooklands Edition](/uploads/1/2/6/3/126336461/266979378.jpg)
It can be very instructive for some problem recordings - I have met several OMG type waveforms.
I'm personally not convinced by upsampling (the theory of making up data just bothers me)
Well it's Hobson's choice If you do a direct 44.1kHz DAC conversion you end up with Nyquist related anti-aliasing artifacts covering the HF spectrum that then need to be filtered out with a brick-wall analoge filter at 20kHz, that has a couple kHz to drop about 80dB or so of HF. Naturally even with the best filter that causes HF spectrum ripples that you will hear: Not good. This is basically making up those missing values via a rather tortuous analogue route that is audibly imperfect.
If you do a digital upsample (e.g in a Behringer Ultramatch) a DSP calculates the precise missing values to a sub-bit error that would be expected with a perfect (synthetic) analog filter. This 88.2kHz 24bit waveform can then be send to a DAC and the analoge filter following can be a gentle, easy filter as it has an extra octave to work with. MUCH better sound.
Basically a 44.1kHz 16bit CD can be regarded as a compressed source, compressed in terms of both sample time and word size, and needs careful digital decompression to sound close to the original.
Sunday 16th December 2012
Interesting info - thanks. Out of interest what is the rest of your system?
SME Model 10, with an upgraded SME IV fitted with a Koetsu Rosewood. That in turn feeds into an EAR MC4 step up, which feeds an EAR 834P phono stage, which feeds the LS26.On the digital side I have a Naim HDX (used as a music store for the rest of the house, as well as the primary system). I have a PS Audio PerfectWave MkII DAC, which is a bit of overkill really, as I can't hear any difference at all between that and the internal DAC in the HDX, so I'll be selling that shortly I think.
Tuner is a Magnum Dynalab MD90SE.
Power amp is as said an ARC VS115, speakers are PMC Fact8's. Speaker cable is Tellurium Q Black, system interconnects are balanced where possible (Mark Grant Cables) or Linn where single ended.
Grainy photo.
Sunday 16th December 2012
That looks a superb setup riff-raff! A few questions then. How do you find the HDX? It's something I'm considering - I love the Naim DAC and I currently have an Aurender S10 as the front end of my main system into a W4S Dac2, and then Sonos ZP90's around the rest of the house into a variety of DACS (Basically as I've been buying and trying various DACS the best one gets left in the main system and the previous best used elsewhere) - The problem with this is that I then have 2 seperate systems to manage (Aurender & Sonos) - If i were to use the HDX I could simplify things greatly. I've not heard the Perfect Wave DAC but by all accounts its excellent. Does the HDX go direct into your power amp?
How do you find the Fact 8's? I went for a demo of PMC kit recently and seriously considered the PBi as an alternative to by current N802's. Try as may I can't seem to tame the brightness of the B&W's on certain recordings. 90% of the time they are fantastic but despite going through various amps and DACs nothing has succeeded, so reluctantly I'm coming to the conclusion that they will always be a problem in my setup. Did you compare your Facts to the i series? I understand they are slightly leaner sounding? But then your amp is probably slightly richer in sound than my Krell to compensate. The other option is the MB2i - but I'm not sure the wife would permit these into the house
That ARC looks superb - I'll have to Google more about it..............
How do you find the Fact 8's? I went for a demo of PMC kit recently and seriously considered the PBi as an alternative to by current N802's. Try as may I can't seem to tame the brightness of the B&W's on certain recordings. 90% of the time they are fantastic but despite going through various amps and DACs nothing has succeeded, so reluctantly I'm coming to the conclusion that they will always be a problem in my setup. Did you compare your Facts to the i series? I understand they are slightly leaner sounding? But then your amp is probably slightly richer in sound than my Krell to compensate. The other option is the MB2i - but I'm not sure the wife would permit these into the house
That ARC looks superb - I'll have to Google more about it..............
Sunday 16th December 2012
The DAC isn't the problem
Can you try ripping a harsh CD track to a .WAV file, and the downloading Audacity and having a look at the output?It can be very instructive for some problem recordings - I have met several OMG type waveforms.
I'm personally not convinced by upsampling (the theory of making up data just bothers me)
Well it's Hobson's choice If you do a direct 44.1kHz DAC conversion you end up with Nyquist related anti-aliasing artifacts covering the HF spectrum that then need to be filtered out with a brick-wall analoge filter at 20kHz, that has a couple kHz to drop about 80dB or so of HF. Naturally even with the best filter that causes HF spectrum ripples that you will hear: Not good. This is basically making up those missing values via a rather tortuous analogue route that is audibly imperfect.
If you do a digital upsample (e.g in a Behringer Ultramatch) a DSP calculates the precise missing values to a sub-bit error that would be expected with a perfect (synthetic) analog filter. This 88.2kHz 24bit waveform can then be send to a DAC and the analoge filter following can be a gentle, easy filter as it has an extra octave to work with. MUCH better sound.
Basically a 44.1kHz 16bit CD can be regarded as a compressed source, compressed in terms of both sample time and word size, and needs careful digital decompression to sound close to the original.That's mostly gone right over my head! - like I say the DcS kit I heard with a Scarlatti upsampler was stunning so perhaps there's more to it than just making up data after all
Sunday 16th December 2012
IF you are considering new speakers, a can personally recommend Ushers:
http://hi-fidelityuk.co.uk/products/UA_prod.shtml
I have these ones http://hi-fidelityuk.co.uk/products/UA/718.shtml
and they are mightily fabulous. For even more bass the X719s have quite stunning depth http://hi-fidelityuk.co.uk/products/UA/719.shtml , in fact I bought the 718s on auditioning the 719s but the 719 was sold
Works of art in manufacturing too, lots of real wood and marble.
Best speakers I have heard for a long time, and not harsh or coloured in the slightest. Google for reviews.
http://hi-fidelityuk.co.uk/products/UA_prod.shtml
I have these ones http://hi-fidelityuk.co.uk/products/UA/718.shtml
and they are mightily fabulous. For even more bass the X719s have quite stunning depth http://hi-fidelityuk.co.uk/products/UA/719.shtml , in fact I bought the 718s on auditioning the 719s but the 719 was sold
Works of art in manufacturing too, lots of real wood and marble.
Best speakers I have heard for a long time, and not harsh or coloured in the slightest. Google for reviews.
Sunday 16th December 2012
IF you are considering new speakers, a can personally recommend Ushers:
http://hi-fidelityuk.co.uk/products/UA_prod.shtml
I have these ones http://hi-fidelityuk.co.uk/products/UA/718.shtml
and they are mightily fabulous. For even more bass the X719s have quite stunning depth http://hi-fidelityuk.co.uk/products/UA/719.shtml , in fact I bought the 718s on auditioning the 719s but the 719 was sold
Works of art in manufacturing too, lots of real wood and marble.
Best speakers I have heard for a long time, and not harsh or coloured in the slightest. Google for reviews.
Oddly enough, I came across a pair of Ushers on eBay, having not heard of them before - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Usher-Be-718-Tiny-Dancer... - Obviously having not heard them I can't know for certain, but as something of a bass head I'm not sure anything of that size os going to hit the spot for me. They certainly look stunning though - something of the Sonus Faber about them? http://hi-fidelityuk.co.uk/products/UA_prod.shtml
I have these ones http://hi-fidelityuk.co.uk/products/UA/718.shtml
and they are mightily fabulous. For even more bass the X719s have quite stunning depth http://hi-fidelityuk.co.uk/products/UA/719.shtml , in fact I bought the 718s on auditioning the 719s but the 719 was sold
Works of art in manufacturing too, lots of real wood and marble.
Best speakers I have heard for a long time, and not harsh or coloured in the slightest. Google for reviews.
Sunday 16th December 2012
Oddly enough, I came across a pair of Ushers on eBay, having not heard of them before - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Usher-Be-718-Tiny-Dancer... - Obviously having not heard them I can't know for certain, but as something of a bass head I'm not sure anything of that size os going to hit the spot for me. They certainly look stunning though - something of the Sonus Faber about them?
They have neat random carbon reinforced drivers that give a nice neutral stuff mid/bass.For bass try to audition the 719s, they pump out an amazing amount - more IMO than the tall floor standing ones.
The 718s surprised me with the amount of bass but the 719s are very deep and grunty for sound - I heard them at a hi-fi show (powered by their R1.6 amp). They are on my list for a future main speaker if the 718s ever get into the 2nd room!
Sunday 16th December 2012
If your after ugly speaker which deliver a smooth sound look no further than a set of Sony SS-176E or SS-176-EB (The brooklands editions come with brass fittings, an extra plinth on the bottom and different bass drivers). They were award winners back in the day and both my brother and I own a pair. Great sound from a pair of ugly black boxes.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FLOOR-STANDING-SPEAKERS-...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FLOOR-STANDING-SPEAKERS-...
Monday 17th December 2012
That looks a superb setup riff-raff! A few questions then. How do you find the HDX? It's something I'm considering - I love the Naim DAC and I currently have an Aurender S10 as the front end of my main system into a W4S Dac2, and then Sonos ZP90's around the rest of the house into a variety of DACS (Basically as I've been buying and trying various DACS the best one gets left in the main system and the previous best used elsewhere) - The problem with this is that I then have 2 seperate systems to manage (Aurender & Sonos) - If i were to use the HDX I could simplify things greatly. I've not heard the Perfect Wave DAC but by all accounts its excellent. Does the HDX go direct into your power amp?
How do you find the Fact 8's? I went for a demo of PMC kit recently and seriously considered the PBi as an alternative to by current N802's. Try as may I can't seem to tame the brightness of the B&W's on certain recordings. 90% of the time they are fantastic but despite going through various amps and DACs nothing has succeeded, so reluctantly I'm coming to the conclusion that they will always be a problem in my setup. Did you compare your Facts to the i series? I understand they are slightly leaner sounding? But then your amp is probably slightly richer in sound than my Krell to compensate. The other option is the MB2i - but I'm not sure the wife would permit these into the house
That ARC looks superb - I'll have to Google more about it..............
The HDX sounds really good with its internal DAC, but if I had to start again I'm not sure I'd go with the HDX. I wouldn't ever have considered buying one new, but this one came up at my local hi fi shop at a good price. It was one of the original spec HDX's with 2 500GB disks, one disk acting as backup for the other. I've since had it upgraded to the latest spec with a single 2TB disk with no internal backup, so it is now backed up to a NAS.How do you find the Fact 8's? I went for a demo of PMC kit recently and seriously considered the PBi as an alternative to by current N802's. Try as may I can't seem to tame the brightness of the B&W's on certain recordings. 90% of the time they are fantastic but despite going through various amps and DACs nothing has succeeded, so reluctantly I'm coming to the conclusion that they will always be a problem in my setup. Did you compare your Facts to the i series? I understand they are slightly leaner sounding? But then your amp is probably slightly richer in sound than my Krell to compensate. The other option is the MB2i - but I'm not sure the wife would permit these into the house
That ARC looks superb - I'll have to Google more about it..............
I bought it because I've been playing around with streaming over my home network for years. I had reasonable results with Sonos plugged into the little system in the living room, but it never sounded quite right attached to the main system in the Lounge. I also had very mixed results using the PW DAC as a streamer. Add into the equation the fact that I had some hi res music 24/96 and 24/192 which wouldn't play through the Sonos........... The Sonos had to go. I figured the way to solve the apparent network problem was to put the music store right next to the pre-amp, connected with phono leads, which meant a solution like the HDX. And then one came up at a good price.
Why wouldn't I buy one again? Well, basically the HDX is a just a PC in a Naim sized box. It doesn't do anything you couldn't do more cheaply with a PC coupled to a decent DAC. On the plus side though it is a plug and play streaming solution - you feed CD's in at the front, it rips and puts them into a library (with all the metadata that it gets automatically from the internet). It also has a fairly slick interface that can be operated from an iPad, although you can use the touch screen front panel or the remote. I use all three interchangeably.
If I had to start all over again though, I'd probably look at something like the UnitiServe if I wanted to stick to Naim.
Anyway, I have the HDX, which is my main music store, with all my ripped CD's and downloaded hi resolution music on it, which I can either play locally through the main system, or stream to the system in the Living room where I have a Naim ND5 XS streamer. Both the HDX and the ND5 XS have internet radio tuners, which is a bonus.
The network issues I eventually solved by buying a decent router. I have BT Infinity at home, which came with a BT HomeHub. The local hifi shop suggested that might be a big part of my problem, so I replaced that with a Netgear job that is capable of running all the ports at 1000Mbps, and which allows you to effectively use fixed IP addresses whilst allowing all the connected devices to think they are using DHCP.
I like the Fact8's. They aren't a patch on the speakers I had before - a pair of Quad 989's - but the Mrs. cut up rusty about those so I had to get rid. The PMC's again were recommended by the local hi fi shop. They sound good, and are domestically acceptable.
The Quads.....
Monday 17th December 2012
Interesting info - thanks. Out of interest what is the rest of your system?
SME Model 10, with an upgraded SME IV fitted with a Koetsu Rosewood. That in turn feeds into an EAR MC4 step up, which feeds an EAR 834P phono stage, which feeds the LS26.On the digital side I have a Naim HDX (used as a music store for the rest of the house, as well as the primary system). I have a PS Audio PerfectWave MkII DAC, which is a bit of overkill really, as I can't hear any difference at all between that and the internal DAC in the HDX, so I'll be selling that shortly I think.
Tuner is a Magnum Dynalab MD90SE.
Power amp is as said an ARC VS115, speakers are PMC Fact8's. Speaker cable is Tellurium Q Black, system interconnects are balanced where possible (Mark Grant Cables) or Linn where single ended.
Grainy photo.
WoW!!!!!! beautiful looking, and I can only dream of how it sounds.
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